Our second Airbnb experience on this trip was called “Dive into real Mexico” and the name is a perfect descriptor. It was a full day experience – just over 10 hours long.
We met our host Daniel in the morning and he drove us 2 hours away to the state where his family originates, Tlaxcala. After exploring the state capital, also called Tlaxcala, we drove to Daniel’s hometown, Texoloc, to cook in his grandfather’s traditional kitchen (seriously, it was over 100 years old!).
That sounds short and sweet, but this trip was a long day, jam packed with food, activities, and knowledge. Obviously, we loved it.
We haven’t blogged much about it yet, but throughout our trip we learned a lot about Mexico’s history and culture, particular the pre-European cultures and traditions throughout the region. Our adventure with Daniel, our last full day in Mexico, was the perfect way to wrap this up, as Tlaxcala and the Tlaxcalan people have a very rich history. You can read more about it here, but the summary from Daniel is essentially this: Tlaxcala has existed for thousands of years, and they were proudly distinct from the Mexica people who were otherwise dominating much of the surrounding area (and who also founded Mexico City’s precursor, Tenochtitlan). When the Spanish colonizers arrived they formed strategic alliances with non-Mexica groups, the first of which was their alliance with Tlaxcala. Tlaxcala people traveled to Madrid to sign this agreement, and they eventually travelled with Spanish colonizers to the Philippines. Even today some traditional Tlaxcala words are spoken in the Philippines, and Tlaxcala descendants still live in the Philippines.
Aside from learning, we also ate A LOT. We started our day in a Mexico City market, eating tamales for breakfast. Then we drove to Tlaxcala where we ate our way through market stalls and wandered around admiring the variety of foods and goods available.
We took a trip through an artisanal market on our way to drink pulque (a pre-hispanic drink known as the nectar of the gods – more on this later). Next we visited the church in Tlaxcala, which is one of the oldest Spanish churches in the Americas. We also visited the city’s bullfighting arena.
And then, after all that, it was time to make dinner!
We went to Daniel’s grandfather’s house where we met his parents and learned how to cook using traditional pre-hispanic tools and techniques. Daniel’s delightful mother lead us through the entire process of making tlacoyos from scratch – including the dough! We even made homemade tortillas!
After all that, we ate again. We then explored Daniel’s grandfather’s farm and took a quick walk through the town of Texeloc (fun fact: everyone in the world with the last name Tecpa can trace their roots back to this very town!).
We took many, many photos, all of which you can see below (with explanatory notes added in for context). If you ever have a free day to spend in Mexico, and if you love food and history, then you definitely should sign up for Daniel’s “dive into real Mexico“! It’s truly one of the most interesting things I’ve ever done while travelling.
Here’s a video of Kevin and I making tlacoyos, and below that are our photos from the day!
Starting off the day with tamales for breakfast!
And a special warm oat drink, atole!
Eating tamales like a local lol
This statue represents a wind deity important in this particular region. It’s a MASSIVE statue right between 2 highway lanes.
Driving outside of Mexico City
Arriving in Tlaxcala
tacos de canasta, a type of quesadilla that is unique to Tlaxcala. Delicious!
They’re called “tacos de canasta” or “basket tacos” because that’s how they’re carried out for selling!
Another food break. This time we’re having local homemade mole.
Not made from mole paste! This is truly homemade and maintained daily for constant freshness!
We also hade Jamaica Juice. Jamaica is the Mexican word for Hibiscus flower!
There’s Daniel, enjoying some Mole!
Here I am, ready to trek through another market!
Quick break to try a snack of blue corn. Covered in chilli powder and lime juice!
Here’s another style of tamale!
And the lovely woman selling them!
#marketselfie
Another stop to try fruit!
An
And another stop to try cow head. It was one of the best things we ate all day.
Dried hibiscus!
The church in Tlaxcala
Entering the Tlaxcala City Hall
The city hall has an incredible set of mural that tells the story of the Tlaxcala people.
Here they are in Spain, signing an agreement with the Spanish royal government. Spain formed alliances with non-Mexica tribes in order to defeat them and take over all the area of present-day Mexico. The Tlaxcala peoples were astute and ended up travelilng to both Spain and later the Philippines. In fact, some Tlaxcala words are present in the Philippine languages!
This mural contains many of the same foods we saw and ate in the market!
Walking through an artisanal market in Tlaxcala
Stopping at a bar for some Pulque!
These are the plants from which Pulque is derived!
This is the site of one of the oldest churches in the Americas
Here is where the 4 leaders of this region were baptised once the Spanish forced them to convert to Catholicism.
This is the entrance to the oldest part of the church
This is the open pulpit from which Spanish priests preached to large crowds of commoners
A quick stop at a bull fighting arena!
Parking in the shade!
When we arrived in Daniel’s hometown of Texoloc, he took us to a Tortilleria. Most towns have them, and this is where everyone buys their tortillas!
Here’s the dried corn
After it soaks they grind it
It comes out as flour!
And it going into this tortillas assembly line machine!
delicious!
Here’s Daniel’s mom, showing us how to make our own corn meal by hand
She can turn this into dough in just 4-6 strokes!
Kevin’s here giving it a try
This is the end goal
Here’s Chris!
I’m making salsa!
And here’s Sierra!
Kevin took over on salsa duty
This is a bag of limestone
They put the limestone on their cooking surface instead of using oil
Here’s the cooking surface with limestone
Here’s a fresh version
finished prodcut!
beans!
fried cactus with lemon juice – delish!
Now it’s my turn to make corn meal dough. SO hard!
Our goal was to make tlacoyos – the dough with beans or cheese inside, cooked on the stovetop.
the tlacoyos are cooking!
the finished product!
Exploring Daniel’s grandfather’s farm
Kevin used to do this in Portugal with his grandparents as well, so this was a cool addition to the trip.
We also took a short walk through the town of Texeloc!
They also have a church
But clearly they put their own spin on the interior decor
When Kevin and I went to Amsterdam we kicked off our trip with a food tour, which was both a unique culinary experience and a great walking tour with a local guide. We were introduced to the food tour via Booking.com but since we didn’t use them for our trip this time around we decided to try a new source of fun: Airbnb “experiences”.
We participated in 2 different experiences during our trip, and the first was called “discover street food with a local“. We did this on Tuesday, and it was one of the highlights of our trip!
We started off in the morning outside of El Templo Mayor where we met our guide, Pili. She gave us a brief history of the temple and market square and church nearby. From there, we hopped on the subway and went to explore a local market. This particular market served as a distribution hub for fresh flowers, so it was quite beautiful.
Near the market was a type of food court, and we went there to learn how to cook a traditional Mexican dish, huaraches. They’re typically quite large but since we were novices, we made smaller huaraches – a corn flower dough, with a bean paste in the middle. The technique was kind of like making a perogie: flatten a small ball of dough, add in the filling, then pull the tough tight around it and pinch it sealed. However, then you also flatten out the dough and fry it.
Huaraches are served with a pile of toppings, and we also made those! Toppings included tomatillo salsa, cactus, and huitlacoche. This was pretty exciting because huitlacoche is a delicacy that originated in Aztec cuisine and is unlike anything we’d ever eat in Canada.
The English term for huitlacoche is “corn smut”. Huitlacoche is a type of corn fungus, which is why it’s rarely found north of Mexico. As we expected, it’s delicious!
After we ate our huaraches, Pili and our chef host, Evelyn, made us quesadillas as well. From there we need an energy boost, so Pili took us back to city centre to visit a market famed for its traditional coffee. I had a chocolate drink that was incredible and Kevin enjoyed an espresso.
To wrap up the day we visited a stall that sells insects as cuisine! The other couple in our group (shout out to Landon and Jerusalem!) were brave enough to try, but I was too full/afraid.
The whole “experience” lasted approximately 4 hours and was jam-packed with learning and fun. Pili was a great host and she showed us a great time. She was fun and friendly, very knowledgeable, and open to answering any questions we had. Spending the day with her was like hanging out with a friend, and I would absolutely recommend her tours to anyone.
If you’re looking for a great half-day experience in Mexico City then I definitely recommend you take her tour!
See below for the many photos of our adventure with Pili!
When the Spanish colonizers came to Mexico City they had locals build their churches. And often locals worked their own traditional arts (like the snakes on this cross) into the final product
subway map!
Arriving at our destination
Exploring the flower market!
huitlacoche before cooking
there’s Pili, teaching us about peppers!
mole paste!
Huaraches Ramoncita – our lunch spot!
huitlacoche before we’ve cooked it!
cactus, chopped by Kevin.
look at us go!
salsa at the beginning
there are our huaraches!
and the finished product!
And here’s Evelyn cooking the huitlacoche for us
the finished product!
and a quesadilla for good measure!
for dessert, a Mamey – tastes like the product of an avocado and a sweet potato!