Tag: Dover

  • The wall around Canterbury and the old castle

    The wall around Canterbury and the old castle

    Remember when we tried to go to Dover Castle? When we took a bus, walked up and down hills, and walked across the town of Dover to get a bus back to Canterbury? Yeah, that was only the first half of our adventures that day.

    Once we arrived back in Canterbury, it was time for a lunch break. We went to lunch at a restaurant we’d never been to before, called Deeson’s Restaurant. It was a delight. Wanting to treat ourselves, but not being that hungry, we opted for light appetizers, along with some very lovely desserts. The food was creative and delicious. Considering what you got on your plate, it was a bit over priced, but a tasty meal is a tasty meal. And dessert! Oh, dessert! In Portugal they make something called “pera bebde” which translates to “drunken pear”. Deeson’s Restaurant made a version of this that was oh so fancy and oh so delicious: a pear soaked in mulled wine, served with crunchy toffee, salted caramel, and a brownie! See the photo for full effect.

    And after lunch, we kept going, as we do. We walked along the ancient city walls, and explored the ruins of a castle was built hundreds of years ago, and was part of the inner city walls.

    The Canterbury city walls are another thing that dates back to the days of the Romans. While little of the Roman construction remains today, the location of the Roman walls was maintained as later medieval and modern civilizations built and re-built the walls in the same spots. Here’s what Wikipedia has to say:

    Canterbury city walls are a sequence of defensive walls built around the city of Canterbury in Kent, England. The first city walls were built by the Romans, probably between 270 and 280 AD. These walls were constructed from stone on top of an earth bank, and protected by a ditch and wall towers … With the collapse of Roman Britain, Canterbury went into decline but the walls remained, and may have influenced the decision of Augustine to settle in the city at the end of the 6th century. The Anglo-Saxons retained the defensive walls, building chapels over most of the gates and using them to defend Canterbury against Viking incursions.

    The Norman invaders of the 11th century took the city without resistance, and by the 12th century the walls were ill-maintained and of little military value. Fears of a French invasion during the Hundred Years’ War led to an enquiry into Canterbury’s defences in 1363. The decision was taken to restore the city walls and for around the next thirty years the old Roman defences were freshly rebuilt in stone, incorporating the older walls where they still remained … Parts of the wall were deliberately damaged by Parliament during the English Civil War of the 17th century and the doors to the city’s gates burnt; with the restoration of Charles II in 1660, new doors were reinstalled.

    During the 18th and 19th centuries, Canterbury’s city walls came under extensive pressure from urban development. All the gates but one, West Gate, were destroyed and extensive parts of the walled circuit were knocked down to make way for new roads and buildings. German bombing during the Second World War caused further damage. Despite this, the remaining walls and gatehouse survived post-war redevelopment intact and some portions were rebuilt entirely. Over half the original circuit survives, enclosing an area of 130 acres (53 ha), and historians Oliver Creighton and Robert Higham consider the city wall to be “one of the most magnificent in Britain”.

    Again, that’s some pretty old stuff! After lunch we walked through a lovely park to reach the walls, and then walked along the walls towards the ruins of an old castle. On the way there, I took a quick detour to walk up the Dane John Mound. A former Roman cemetery, it’s now a mound/mini-hill in a lovely park. I jaunted up to the top of the mound to catch a good view, but as you’ll see in the photos, it was  mostly a view of surrounding suburbs on the one side, and then a view of Canterbury (and the cathedral,obviously) on the other. As a tourist destination, it wasn’t great, but it was obviously a favourite relaxation spot with the locals, because it was packed with students hanging out and enjoying the view.

    From there, we carried along on our walk. We walked all the way to the ruins of Canterbury Castle. Fortunately, this one was open. Canterbury Castle is a Norman castle that dates back to 1066, when William the Conqueror (according to my Nana Ev’s research, my 82nd great grandfather) was busy conquering England. King Henry I then turned that lowly wooden castle into the fancy stone castle that stands today.

    Of course, it’s not standing too fancy, and here’s one of the reasons why:

    By the 19th century it had been obtained by a gas company and used as a storage centre for gas for many years, during which time the top floor was destroyed.

    Yikes. Smooth move, gas company.

    Anyways, the castle ruins are open, which means we were able to walk around inside, seeing the remnants of a well which brought water throughout the castle; the remaining few stairs to once took you to the top of the castle, and I even climbed the last remaining sets of stairs, enjoying a heightened view of the whole place. All that and more in the photos below!

     

     

     

     

  • We went to Dover Castle … sort of.

    We went to Dover Castle … sort of.

    On Friday, I arrived in Canterbury. I emailed my family a photo of Nana and I together, letting them know I’d arrived safely. Everyone responded quickly with well wishes, and suggestions for all the things I should do while there (context: this is the third year that Nana Ev has come to stay in Canterbury for several weeks. Both my aunt and my parents have previously visited during this trip).

    On Saturday, Nana Ev and I FaceTimed with my parents and Kristopher. On Sunday we FaceTimed with my Aunt Elaine and Uncle Joe.

    On both calls, we were asked a variation of this question: “so, have you done [insert activity] yet?” “did you go [insert location] here yet”.

    Nana and I could not stop laughing. These questions were hilariously ill-timed, considering I’d barely just arrived.

    In their enthusiasm about the many things to do in Canterbury, my Dad absolutely insisted that we must go to Dover Castle. We hadn’t initially planned to do this, because it was a bit more complicated to get to Dover without a car, but since my Dad insisted it was such a must-do activity, we figured out how to take the bus there.

    So, this morning we got up bright and early. We got on the bus, and headed for Dover Castle, a lovely 40 minute ride away.

    Quick facts on Dover Castle, courtesy of my fave, Wikipedia:

    Dover Castle is a medieval castle in Dover, Kent. It was founded in the 12th century and has been described as the “Key to England” due to its defensive significance throughout history. It is the largest castle in England.

    The site may have been fortified with earthworks in the Iron Age or earlier, before the Romans invaded in AD43. This is suggested on the basis of the unusual pattern of the earthworks which does not seem to be a perfect fit for the medieval castle. Excavations have provided evidence of Iron Age occupation within the locality of the castle, but it is not certain whether this is associated with the hillfort. There have also been excavations on the mound which the church and Roman Pharos are situated on, which has been discovered to be a Bronze Age mound.

    Our bus driver let us know when to get off the bus, and told us we had to walk a bit down the hill to get to the entrance (Keep in mind that Dover Castle sits atop a massive hill, which is why we were skeptical of making this trip sans car). Needless to say, when the bus driver said that the return bus stop was further up the hill, while the entrance to the castle was further down, we weren’t impressed.

    Thus, we walked down the hill, only to find another hill we needed to walk up in order to reach the castle. As we approached the gate, I began to question our decisions. The gate looked closed. I thought perhaps I wasn’t seeing things right, until I was standing in front of the locked gate, looking at a ticket booth that was very much closed.

    Well, shit. Now what? We sure didn’t see this coming. We also weren’t sure if the Castle was closed, or if just that particular entrance. We decided to walk further down the hill to reach the car entrance, hoping that might be open. Turns out, it wasn’t. The “Closed” sign was well visible from across the street.

    Not wanting to walk back up that darn hill, we continued to walk down. Eventually we were back in the lovely town of Dover. Also, we had no real idea where we were going, other than knowing we needed to get back on a bus. After asking a couple of people for directions (all of whom confirmed that it was unusual for the castle to be closed), we eventually found a bus stop. When we asked the bus driver if his particular bus would take us to the main station, he told us that it would, but so would a 5 minute walk through the park behind us. Obviously, we opted for the latter.

    Another 10 minutes of waiting, and we were back on the bus to Canterbury! As soon as we were in wifi range, we looked up Dover Castle’s hour. Indeed, it is only open on the weekends this month. Truly bizarre, because the sign on site said otherwise.

    Anyways, here are the pictures we took on our adventure to see Dover Castle. We did the Castle, though we didn’t get inside. Consider it the unsuccessful invaders’ version of the tour. Tres vintage.